Simone Moro

Simone Moro is an Italian mountaineer born October 27 1967 in Bergamo Italy He is the first and only mountaineer to achieve the first winter ascents of four peaks over 8000 meters Shisha Pangma in 2005 Makalu in 2009 Gasherbrum II in 2011 and Nanga Parbat in 2016 Moro is also a helicopter pilot experienced holder of many records Encouraged by his father a highlevel mountaineer and motorcyclist in his passion for the high mountains he began at the age of 13 by climbing the Pizzo della Presolana and other massifs of the Bergamasque Alps while continuing his studies until the end of his university studies In 1992 he made his first expedition to Everest A year later Moro climbed Aconcagua making the first winter ascent In 1996 Moro climbed the west face of Fitz Roy 3341 m in Patagonia in 25 hours from the base to the top of the wall The same year he reached the southern summit of Shisha Pangma 8008 m without oxygen in 27 hours and then made a descent on skis from 7100 meters In 1997 he successfully climbed Lhotse During the winter of 1997 during his attempt to climb the south face of Annapurna his rope companions Anatoli Boukreev and Dimitri Sobolev disappeared in an avalanche He returned to Everest in 1998 then succeeded in climbing four peaks Peak Lenin 7134 m Peak Korjenevskoy 7105 m Peak Ismail Somoni 7495 m Peak Khan Tengri 7010 m with the Kazakh Denis Urubko and succeeded with him the ascent of Everest in 2000 and the first winter of the Marble Wall in 2001 In 2002 he climbed three summits Mount Vinson Cho Oyu and Everest then also three summits Broad Peak Elbrouz and Kilimanjaro in 2003 He opened a new route on Baruntse and attempted the ascent of Shisha Pangma and Annapurna in 2004 In 2005 he reached the summit of Batura Sar and Batokshi peak He climbed the Broad Peak during the winters of 2006 and 2007 In 2005 he succeeded in the first winter Shisha Pangma with Piotr Morawski In 2006 he completed the SouthNorth crossing of Everest alone descending from the summit in 5 hours In 2008 he completed with Hervé Barmasse the first ascent of Beka Brakai Chnok 6950 m in the Karakoram in alpine style and in 43 hours In January 2009 Simone Moro succeeded without oxygen in the first winter ascent of Makalu in the company of Denis Urubko In February 2011 Moro made the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II with Denis Urubko and Cory Richards In April 2013 Moro accompanied by Ueli Steck and Jonathan Griffith got involved in a fight with a group of Sherpas This incident had an international impact In February 2016 Moro completed the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat with Alex Txikon and Muhammad Ali Sadpara In February 2018 Simone Moro accompanied by Tamara Lunger climbed Pic Pobeda in Siberia the highest point of the Chersky Massif at 7439 meters above sea level In January 2020 Moro accompanied by Lunger attempted to cross Gasherbrum II and I in winter The expedition runs out before the camp Moro falls into a fortunately harmless crevasse